montague balloon fair ! Gumps Founded in 1861 by German immigrants, this homegrown department store is an institution. It

90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town, rich with arty nonchalance (see p64). d 605 Vallejo St Map M4 (415) 982-2605 Dis. access @Tosca Dating back to 1919, this North Beach bar is a favorite with celebrities. The jukebox plays opera arias. d 242 Columbus Ave Map M4 Closed L (415) 986-9651 Dis. access Caff Roma You re as likely to hear Italian here as you are English, not only from the staff but from the patrons. A friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy an espresso and eye passers-by. d 526 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 296-7662 Dis. access $O Reilly s The bar dates from 1825 and was imported from Ireland. Everything montague balloon fair here evokes the Emerald Isle. d 622 Green St at Columbus Map L4 (415) 989-6222 Dis. access %Grand Caf A stylish place to see and be seen, as an addendum to the chic Hotel Monaco. d 501 Geary St at Taylor Map P3 (415) 292- 0101 Dis. access ^Quetzal A colorful, bustling place where you can get a brew from coffee to beer and check your e-mail. Breakfast and lunch fare. d 1234 Polk St at Bush Map N1 (415) 673-4181 Dis. access montague balloon fair &Bambuddha Lounge This popular and trendy restaurant and nightclub is the place to visit for fabulous cocktails and hip beats. There is a heated patio (see p70). *Bubble Lounge A champagne bar with room after room of subdued lighting montague balloon fair and cozy corners (see p66). d 714 Montgomery St Map M5 (415) 434-4204 Dis. access montague balloon fair (Red Room All red and tiny, as the name implies, this joint lures devotees with its classic cocktails. d Next door to Commodore Hotel, 827 Sutter St between Jones and Leavenworth Map P2 (415) 346-7666 Dis. access )The Irish Bank Down a picturesque alley, this winning pub feels very Irish. Tip a Guinness before the 5pm yuppie rush to get the best taste of its friendly vibes. montague balloon fair d 10 Mark Lane, off Bush St Map P4 (415) 788-7152 Around Town Downtown

! Gumps Founded in 1861 by German immigrants, this homegrown department store is an institution. It has the largest collection montague balloon fair in the US of fine china and crystal, selling famous names such as Baccarat and Lalique. The store is also celebrated for its Oriental treasures, rare works of art, and its window displays. d 135 Post St Map P4 (800) 766-7628

^Wells Fargo Stagecoaches of Wells Fargo & Co began carrying freight and passengers in 1852, taking full advantage of the momentum set up by the Gold Rush. It was also instrumental in the development of the Pony Express (see p41).

Steps of Rome One of the many Italian caf s often full of real Italians lined up along this stretch montague balloon fair of Columbus. This one features large windows, montague balloon fair usually open, with clientele spilling out onto the sidewalk to eye the stream of passers-by. Good coffee and desserts make it an appealing pit stop until closing time at 2am. d 348 Columbus Ave between Broadway & Vallejo montague balloon fair Map M4 (415) 397-0435