sticky wisdom book Metreon Intended as a lively, high- tech, multilevel amusement arcade for adolescents, so far the on

Metreon Intended as a lively, high- tech, multilevel amusement arcade for adolescents, so far the only thing that seems to have clicked is the superb cinema complex. Here you can see the latest Hollywood blockbusters with full digital sound effects amped up to the highest possible level. Otherwise, the Metreon s darkened rooms, designed for checking out the latest video games, are largely abandoned by the teens who were supposed to be flocking (see p29).

Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption The exterior of this 1971 building has been compared to a giant washing machine; inside is equally odd, with stained glass strips, evoking the four elements, and a sculpture of aluminum rods (see p47). d 1111 Gough St Map F3 (415) 567-2020 Services: 6:45am, sticky wisdom book 8am, 12:10pm Mon Sat; 7:30am, 9am, 11am Sun Dis. access Free

samuel weiner md This section of the coast is amazingly wild, especially considering that it is actually within the c

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the only intact chapel among the 21 California missions that Father Junipero Serra founded samuel weiner md in the late 18th century. Its found- ing just days before the Declaration of Indepen- dence makes San Francisco older than the US (see pp30 31). )The Wine Country samuel weiner md So internationally recognized have the wines from this region samuel weiner md become that French, Italian, and Spanish winemakers have all established vineyards here. A day trip or a longer stay shouldn t be missed (see pp32 5). &Grace Cathedral Dominating Nob Hill with its timeless beauty, San Francisco s favorite cathedral offers a host of awe inspiring and historic treasures, including Italian Renaissance master- pieces and stained glass windows (see pp24 5). ^Golden samuel weiner md Gate Park The city boasts samuel weiner md one of the largest public parks in the world with ew York Modern s mark ury ainting, the talla- ). %Chinatown samuel weiner md The exotic feel of one of the world s ( San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 7 Mission Dolores The city s oldest building is also the only intact chapel among the 21 California missions that Father samuel weiner md Junipero Serra founded in the late 18th century. Its found- ing just days before the Declaration of Indepen- dence makes San Francisco older than the US (see pp30 31). )The Wine Country So internationally recognized have the wines from this region become that French, Italian, and Spanish winemakers have all established vineyards here. A day trip or a longer stay shouldn t be missed (see pp32 5). &Grace Cathedral Dominating Nob Hill with its timeless beauty, San Francisco s favorite cathedral offers a host of awe inspiring and historic treasures, including Italian Renaissance master- pieces and stained glass windows (see pp24 5). ^Golden Gate Park The city boasts one of the largest public parks in the world with ew York Modern s mark ury ainting, the talla- ). %Chinatown The exotic feel of one of the world s (

Botanica Yoruba The Santeria religion is the faith of many Latinos, and this shop caters to their ritualistic and spiritual needs. An array of potions and powders, candles and icons (see p45). d 998 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 826-4967

This section of the coast is amazingly wild, especially considering that it is actually within the city limits. Note that portions of the hike are very rugged, so dress accordingly, with good footwear.

montague clothing ! Golden Gate Park One of the largest city parks in the US is also one of the most diverse, and all

! Golden Gate Park One of the largest city parks in the US is also one of the most diverse, and all of it brought forth from what was once scrub and dunes. The park also features first rate cultural attractions such as the de Young Museum (see pp20-21).

22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden montague clothing Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toTh A d f ilit i G ld G t P k i h d l d t open in late 2008.popen in late 2008open in late 2008 For details: www.calacademy.orgy gFor details: www calacademy orgFor details: www calacademy org California Academy of Sciences Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish in the Coral Reef exhibit !Swamp Part of the Steinhart Aquarium, the Swamp is home to alligators and alligator snapping turtles. There are also exhibits montague clothing on rattlesnakes, frogs, and salamanders. Find out about the swamps of the Southeast US in the Story Time area. @Discovery Tidepool Stroke a starfish, get cozy with hermit crabs, or pick up a sea slug in this hands-on, hands- wet attraction, part of the California Coast exhibits. The pool is staffed by volunteers who will tell you what you re handling and keep the animals safe, too. Hours vary, since the creatures get a much deserved time-out from time to time. Coral Reef This is the deepest living coral reef display in the world, exhibiting a range of aquatic life 22 San Francisco s Top 10op The Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled montague clothing toThe Academy s new facility in Golden Gate Park is scheduled toTh A d f ilit i G ld G t P k i h d l d t open in late 2008.popen in late 2008open in late 2008 For details: www.calacademy.orgy gFor details: www calacademy orgFor details: www calacademy org California Academy of Sciences Left A spiky specimen from the Academy Right Clownfish montague clothing in the Coral Reef exhibit !Swamp Part of the Steinhart montague clothing Aquarium, the Swamp is home to alligators and alligator snapping turtles. There are also exhibits on rattlesnakes, frogs, montague clothing and salamanders. Find out about the swamps of the Southeast US in the Story Time area. @Discovery Tidepool montague clothing Stroke a starfish, get cozy with hermit crabs, or pick up a sea slug in this hands-on, hands- wet attraction, montague clothing part of the California Coast exhibits. The pool is staffed by volunteers who will tell you what you re handling and keep the animals safe, too. Hours vary, since the creatures get a much deserved time-out from time to time. Coral Reef This is the deepest living montague clothing coral reef display in the world, exhibiting a range of aquatic life Discovery Tidepool

Sister Boom-Boom One of the original Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, a self- described order of gay male nuns, Sister Boom-Boom took part in street theater with them in the late 1970s and early 1980s. In 1982 he ran for a seat on the Board of Supervisors of San Francisco, winning 23,125 votes. He is also a recognized montague clothing astrologer and uses New Age science to interpret gay issues for the community.

nanshan beijing Around Town Downtown 888 North Beach Sights Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street Steps !T

Around Town Downtown 888 North Beach Sights Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street Steps !Telegraph Hill Named after the semaphore installed nanshan beijing on its crest in 1850, the hill s eastern nanshan beijing side was dynamited to provide rocks for landfill. Steps descend its slopes, lined with gardens. At its summit stands Coit Tower. d Map L5 @North Beach Views The panoramic views from both the hill and the top of the Coit Tower are justly celebrated. The wide arc sweeping from the East Bay and the Bay Bridge to Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge is breathtaking. Coit Tower Murals The frescoes were painted by local artists in 1934, to provide jobs during the Depression (see p47). The murals are socio- political commentary yet are also appealing for their details of life in California at the time. d Map L5 $Filbert Street Steps The flowery descent down these rustic steps provides great views of the Bay. d Map L5 %City Lights Bookstore The Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded City Lights in 1953. It s a great place to leaf through a few volumes of poetry or the latest free papers to find out what s on. d 261 Columbus Ave Map M4 (415) 362-8193 ^Broadway Made famous in the 1960s for its various adult entertain ments, the offerings haven t changed much, though today many venues are now more mainstream. d Map M5 &Upper Grant Saloons, caf s, and bluesy music haunts give this northerly section of Grant Avenue a very alternative feel. d Map L4 *Caff Trieste If you re in the quarter on a Saturday afternoon, don t miss the impromptu opera that takes place here. But any time is right for this artists and writers gathering place (see p90). (Washington Square This pretty park is lined with Italian bakeries, restaurants and bars. Don t be surprised to see practitioners of t ai chi doing their thing on the lawn every morning. d Map L4 )Saints Peter & Paul Church Neo-Gothic in conception, with an Italianesque fa ade, this church is also called the Italian Cathedral and the Fisherman s Church, since many Italians who originally lived in the neighborrr hood made their living by fishing (see p45). d 666 Filbert St Map L4 Open daily Free There are guided nanshan beijing tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,g yThere are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,There are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat historyTh id d f N h B h I li d B hi food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture Contact the tourist office (see p132) for detailsf d d lt C t t th t i t ffi ( 132) f d t il Coit Tower Around Town Downtown 888 North Beach Sights Left City Lights Bookstore Right Filbert Street Steps !Telegraph Hill Named after the semaphore installed on its crest in 1850, the hill s eastern side was dynamited to provide rocks for landfill. Steps descend its slopes, lined with gardens. At its summit stands Coit Tower. nanshan beijing d Map L5 @North Beach Views The panoramic views from both the hill and the top of the Coit Tower are justly celebrated. The wide arc sweeping from the East Bay and the Bay Bridge to Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge is breathtaking. Coit Tower Murals The frescoes were painted by local artists in 1934, to provide jobs during the Depression (see p47). The murals are socio- political commentary yet are also appealing for their details of life in California at the time. d Map L5 $Filbert Street Steps The flowery nanshan beijing descent down these rustic steps provides great views of the Bay. d Map L5 %City Lights Bookstore The Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded City Lights in 1953. It s a great place to leaf through a few volumes of poetry or the latest free papers to find out what s on. d 261 Columbus Ave Map M4 (415) 362-8193 ^Broadway Made famous nanshan beijing in the 1960s for its various adult entertain ments, the offerings haven t changed much, though today many venues are now more mainstream. d Map M5 &Upper Grant Saloons, caf s, and bluesy music haunts give this northerly section of Grant Avenue a very alternative feel. d Map L4 *Caff Trieste If you re in the quarter on a Saturday afternoon, don t miss the impromptu opera that takes place here. But any time is right for this artists and writers gathering place (see p90). (Washington Square This pretty park is lined with Italian bakeries, restaurants and bars. Don t be surprised to see practitioners of t ai chi doing their thing on the lawn every morning. d Map L4 )Saints Peter & Paul Church Neo-Gothic in conception, with an Italianesque nanshan beijing fa ade, this church is also called the Italian Cathedral and the Fisherman s Church, since many Italians who originally lived in the neighborrr hood made their living by fishing (see p45). d 666 Filbert St Map L4 Open daily Free There are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,g yThere are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat history,There nanshan beijing are guided tours of North Beach s Italian and Beat historyTh id d f N h B h I li d B hi food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture. Contact the tourist office (see p132) for details.food and culture Contact the tourist nanshan beijing office (see p132) for detailsf d d lt C t t th t i t ffi ( 132) f d t il Coit Tower

One of Wallace Stegner s most famous students was Ken Kesey,One of Wallace Stegner s most famous students was Ken Kesey,One of Wallace Stegner s most famous students was Ken KeseyO f W ll St t f t d t K K author of the bestsellerauthor of the bestsellerauthor of the bestseller One Flew Over the Cuckoo s Nest.One Flew Over the Cuckoo s NestOne Flew Over the Cuckoo s Nest San Francisco s Top 10op 53 Top 10 Movies Set in San Francisco !San Francisco Clark Gable and Jeannette Macdonald star in this 1936 film set amid the rubble of the 1906 earthquake. nanshan beijing @The Maltese Falcon Classic Bogart (1941), in which he embodies detective Sam Spade. The four-year-old Bay Bridge is in evidence. #Dark Passage This Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall vehicle (1947) makes use of San Francisco s moody climate. $Vertigo A classic Alfred Hitchcock nanshan beijing thriller (1958) memorably shows the crashing waves under Golden Gate Bridge. %Bullitt Probably the most famous car-chase ever filmed, due to the city s infamous hills (1968). nanshan beijing ^Dirty Harry Yet another detective story (1971) set in the city that invites such mysteries, perhaps due to its fog. &Invasion of the Body Snatchers This 1978 remake of the 1950s classic stars Donald Sutherland as the last survivor of a chilling alien takeover. *The Woman in Red Famous sights play important roles in this 1984 comedy starring Gene Wilder. (Basic Instinct This 1992 thriller sees Sharon Stone and Michael Douglas cross Golden Gate Bridge to a love-pad at Seadrift. )Mrs Doubtfire Native San Franciscan nanshan beijing Robin Williams is in drag in this 1993 spoof. Golden Gate Park is shown to full effect. One of Wallace Stegner s most famous nanshan beijing students was Ken Kesey,One of Wallace Stegner s most famous students was Ken Kesey,One of Wallace Stegner s most famous students was Ken KeseyO f W ll St t f t d t K K author of the bestsellerauthor of the bestsellerauthor of the bestseller One Flew Over the Cuckoo s Nest.One Flew Over the Cuckoo nanshan beijing s NestOne Flew Over the Cuckoo s Nest San Francisco s Top 10op 53 Top 10 Movies Set in San Francisco !San Francisco Clark Gable and Jeannette Macdonald star in this 1936 film set amid the rubble of the 1906 earthquake. @The Maltese Falcon Classic Bogart (1941), in which he embodies detective Sam Spade. nanshan beijing The four-year-old Bay Bridge is in evidence. #Dark Passage This Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall vehicle (1947) makes use of San Francisco s moody climate. nanshan beijing $Vertigo A classic Alfred Hitchcock thriller (1958) memorably shows the crashing waves under Golden Gate Bridge. %Bullitt Probably nanshan beijing the most famous car-chase ever filmed, due to the city s infamous hills (1968). nanshan beijing ^Dirty Harry Yet another detective story (1971) set in the city that invites such mysteries, perhaps nanshan beijing due to its fog. &Invasion of the Body Snatchers This 1978 remake of the 1950s classic stars Donald Sutherland as the last survivor of a chilling alien takeover. *The Woman in Red Famous sights play important roles in this 1984 comedy starring Gene Wilder. nanshan beijing (Basic Instinct This 1992 thriller sees Sharon Stone and Michael Douglas cross Golden Gate Bridge to a love-pad at Seadrift. )Mrs Doubtfire Native San Franciscan nanshan beijing Robin Williams is in drag in this 1993 spoof. Golden Gate Park is shown to full effect. Armistead Maupin

renee montague 122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands I

In-line Skating Golden Gate Park and in line skaters make a perfect match, especially on Sundays, when the main street in the park is closed to cars. Or try the path that runs along Marina Green for smoothly paved surfaces.

Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relatively little used park, but it s great for taking a siesta, tossing renee montague a frisbee, or just strolling through to take in the spectacular views from the cliffs. d Map F1

122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands IN LOCAL PARLANCE, THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa Clara and San Jose and certainly Santa Cruz and Capitola do not touch the waters of the Bay, psychologically they still embody the same liberal, open- minded ethos that so defines this area. This is probably because the dominant mentality of this swatch of Northern California is so definably different from those of Southern California renee montague and the Central Valley. In towns such as Berkeley, Mill Valley, and Stanford the emphasis is on progressive thinking; smaller enclaves such as Bolinas are determined to live life in harmony with the breathtaking renee montague nature all around them. Sather Tower, renee montague Berkeley campus Around renee montague Town The Bay Areaay 122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands IN LOCAL PARLANCE, THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa Clara and San Jose and certainly Santa Cruz and Capitola do not touch the waters of the Bay, psychologically they still embody the same liberal, open- minded ethos that so defines this area. This is probably because the dominant mentality of this swatch of Northern California is so definably different from those of Southern California and the Central Valley. In towns such as Berkeley, Mill Valley, and Stanford the emphasis is on progressive thinking; smaller enclaves such as Bolinas are determined renee montague to live life in harmony with the breathtaking nature all around them. Sather Tower, Berkeley campus Around Town The Bay Areaay

188 montague Dozens of Top 10 lists from the Top 10 most famous prisoners on Alcatraz to the Top 10 restaurants,

Dozens of Top 10 lists from the Top 10 most famous prisoners on Alcatraz to the Top 10 restaurants, children s attractions, and hotels provide the insider knowledge every visitor needs. And to save you time and money, there s even a list of the Top 10 Things 188 montague to Avoid.
188 montague
SF International has lockers in all boarding areas that you can secure for up to 24 hours. For anything bigger or that you want to store for a longer time, go to the Luggage 188 montague Storage in the upperr rr level passageway between the South and International Terminals.

Exchange 19 Old Faithful Geyser 33 Old La Honda Road 61 Old Stuff 120 111 Minna Gallery 111 One Market 91 Ono, Yoko 27 Open Secret 45 Operetta 96 O Reilly s 90 Orpheum 57 Otsu 110 outdoor activities 72 3

montague tree farm Ten 15 Folsom Perhaps the definitive SoMa club, with three levels of trance and techno spun by big-n

It would be difficult to think of an authentic national montague tree farm cuisine that is not represented by at least one restaurant in the city. That includes Tibetan, montague tree farm Eritrean, Afghan, Kurdish, and Bolivian, as well as the more standard Thai, Vietnamese, Russian, montague tree farm and most European countries.

Ten 15 Folsom Perhaps the definitive SoMa club, with three levels montague tree farm of trance and techno spun by big-name DJs, complete with million-dollar montague tree farm light shows (see p70). d 1015 Folsom St at 6th Map R4 (415) 431-1200

The nine rooms here are all cozily decorated and have names such as The Cabrillo Room and the Sir Francis Suite. Janis Joplin (see p55) used to stay in the Joplin Room, which has its own sundeck. d 135 Gough St

Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter at Octavia

montague james Should an earthquake strike, stay calm. If you are indoors, a good spot to stand is under a door- fr

Should an earthquake strike, stay calm. If you are indoors, a good spot to stand is under a door- frame. If driving, stay in your car and park in an open place, not under a bridge or viaduct. If outside, try to get to an open area. Major quakes are rare, but minor ones happen all the time and are mostly harmless.

68 San Francisco s Top 10op Left The Midnight Sun Right Eagle Tavern Gay and Lesbian Venues Moby Dick !The Midnight Sun This popular, posy video bar fills up quickly montague james after office hours and stays that way until the wee hours. Mostly good-looking 20- and 30-somethings, it s more about being admired than making connections here, so it s best to go with a friend montague james or two, have a drink, and then move on to some livelier venue. The videos are a mix of music clips and TV sitcoms. d 4067 18th St Map E5 (415) 861-4186 montague james @Moby Dick This old-time Castro montague james hangout attracts a more mature crowd. It s generally a bunch of regulars getting together for pinball or pool or gazing at the aquarium over the bar. The windows are big, so you can keep track of what s going down on the street. The music is largely 1980s retro that sets a fun-loving tone. d 4049 18th St Map E5 www.mobydicksf.com As well as the Castro District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District Polk StreetA ll th C t Dit it P lk St t (see p85)(see p85)(see p85)( 85) is also ais also ais also ai l traditional gay area in the city.gy ytraditional gay area in the citytraditional gay area in the city 68 San Francisco s Top 10op Left The Midnight Sun Right Eagle Tavern Gay and Lesbian Venues Moby Dick !The Midnight Sun This popular, posy video bar fills up quickly after office hours and stays that way until the wee hours. Mostly good-looking montague james 20- and 30-somethings, it s more about being admired than making connections here, so it s best to go with a friend or two, have a drink, and then move on to some livelier venue. The videos are a mix of music clips and TV sitcoms. d 4067 18th St Map E5 (415) 861-4186 @Moby Dick This old-time Castro montague james hangout attracts a more mature crowd. It s generally a bunch of regulars getting montague james together for pinball or pool or gazing at the aquarium over the bar. The windows are big, so you can keep track of what s going down on the street. montague james The music is largely 1980s retro that sets a fun-loving montague james tone. d 4049 18th St Map E5 www.mobydicksf.com As well as the Castro District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District, Polk StreetAs well as the Castro District montague james Polk StreetA ll th C t Dit it P lk St t (see p85)(see montague james p85)(see p85)( 85) is also ais also ais also ai l traditional gay area in the city.gy ytraditional gay area in the citytraditional gay area in the city Twin Peaks Conveniently located on the corner of Market Street, this legendary and distinctive tavern offers one of the best views of the Castro, whether by day or night. The interior is a Moroccan-style, pillowed triangular space with plate-glass windows. d 401 Castro St Map E5 (415) 864-9470

Japantown The Japan Center was built as part of an ambitious 1960s plan to revitalize the Fillmore District. Blocks of aging Victorians were demolished and replaced by the Geary Express way and this Japanese-style montague james shopping complex, with a five- tiered, 75-ft (22-m) Peace Pagoda at its heart. Taiko drummers perform here during the Cherry Blossom Festival each April (see p74). The extensive malls are lined with authentic Japanese shops and restaurants, plus an eight-screen cinema, and the Kabuki Springs and Spa. More shops and restaurants are found along the outdoor mall across Post Street. This neighborhood has been the focus of the Japanese community for some 75 years. d Map F3

hotel solar dos mascarenhas Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San F

San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 13 The Port of San Francisco In 1853 the first wharf was built here, and it quickly became a center for maritime-related enterprise, including shipbuilding, and fresh seafood joints. Italians soon monopolized almost every aspect of the fishing industry even today, most of the eateries hotel solar dos mascarenhas along the Wharf bear Italian names. With technology, however, the Bay was fished-out by the 1950s, hotel solar dos mascarenhas and any big-time fishing industry went out of business or moved elsewhere. %USS Pampanito This vintage submarine (above) sank six enemy ships and damaged four others in World War II. You can tour its interior and get an idea of what life was like for the crew. ^Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial Chapel This little wooden chapel was built in 1980 as an interfaith memorial to all those who make and have made their living at sea. Fish Alley This alley (right) is possibly hotel solar dos mascarenhas the last vestige of the authentic, workaday wharf. Here you can see fishing boats come in and watch as the catch of the day is landed and prepared for market. (Boudin Bakery This is the home of the famous chain of San Francisco sourdough breadmakers. Stop by to try the distinctive crusty round loaf, best enjoyed warm from the oven with plenty of butter. *Aquarium of the Bay The aquarium s trans parent tunnel visually immerses hotel solar dos mascarenhas you in the San Francisco Bay marine habitat, where thousands of members of diverse oceanfauna disport themselves before your eyes. Video presentations and marine specialists helpyou understand what you re seeing. )Ripleys hotel solar dos mascarenhas Believe It Or Not! and Wax Museum These two fun-zone denizens (below) found as attractions hotel solar dos mascarenhas around the world are a give- away that these blocks of Jefferson Street are pure tourist trap. Plan of Fisherman hotel solar dos mascarenhas s Wharf & San Francisco s Top 10Sa a c sco s op 0 13 The Port of San Francisco In 1853 the first wharf was built here, and it quickly became a center for maritime-related enterprise, including shipbuilding, and fresh seafood joints. Italians soon monopolized almost every aspect of the fishing industry even today, most of the eateries along the Wharf bear Italian names. With technology, however, the Bay was fished-out by the 1950s, and any big-time fishing industry went out of business or moved elsewhere. %USS Pampanito This vintage hotel solar dos mascarenhas submarine (above) sank six enemy ships and damaged hotel solar dos mascarenhas four others in World War II. You can tour its interior and get an idea of what life was like for the crew. ^Fisherman s and Seaman s Memorial Chapel This little wooden chapel was built in 1980 as an interfaith memorial to all those who make and have made their living at sea. Fish Alley This alley (right) is possibly the last vestige of the authentic, workaday wharf. Here you can see fishing boats come in and watch as the catch of the day is landed and prepared for market. (Boudin Bakery This is the home of the famous chain of San Francisco sourdough breadmakers. Stop by to try the distinctive crusty round loaf, best enjoyed warm from the oven with plenty hotel solar dos mascarenhas of butter. *Aquarium of the Bay The aquarium s trans parent tunnel visually immerses you in the San Francisco Bay marine habitat, hotel solar dos mascarenhas where thousands of members of diverse oceanfauna hotel solar dos mascarenhas disport themselves before your eyes. Video presentations and marine specialists helpyou understand what you re seeing. )Ripleys hotel solar dos mascarenhas Believe It Or Not! and Wax Museum These two fun-zone denizens (below) found as attractions around the world are a give- away that these blocks of Jefferson Street are pure tourist trap. Plan of Fisherman s Wharf &

Einstein, Albert 25 El Rio 111 Elegant Illusions 96 Elizabeth I, Queen 36 Ella s 65 The Embarcadero 93 Embarcadero Center 51 Embarcadero hotel solar dos mascarenhas Park 49 embassies 132 emergencies 139 Encantada Gallery 110 Enchanted Crystal 104 The Endup 111 Eno, Brian 27 Esplanade 28 exchange offices 138 executive suites 149 Exotic Erotic Ball 75 Exploratorium 58, 94 extreme sports 73

Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques hotel solar dos mascarenhas RightTibet hotel solar dos mascarenhas Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing hotel solar dos mascarenhas boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian hotel solar dos mascarenhas bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 hotel solar dos mascarenhas $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features hotel solar dos mascarenhas tongue-in-cheek vintage hotel solar dos mascarenhas homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet hotel solar dos mascarenhas Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount hotel solar dos mascarenhas clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography hotel solar dos mascarenhas books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple hotel solar dos mascarenhas who own this shop have a discerning hotel solar dos mascarenhas and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF hotel solar dos mascarenhas i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed hotel solar dos mascarenhas into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential hotel solar dos mascarenhas order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled hotel solar dos mascarenhas the 24 hour electric security system. Next to the ControlRoom was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally hotel solar dos mascarenhas well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway hotel solar dos mascarenhas The corridor that separates C and B blocks hotel solar dos mascarenhas (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, famous for its nightlife. The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor Center is located in the old barracks hotel solar dos mascarenhas building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical hotel solar dos mascarenhas overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights. San Francisco s Top 10San Francisco s Top 10 15 The History of The Rock The name Alcatraz derives from the Spanish alcatraces, for the birds that Spanish hotel solar dos mascarenhas explorer Juan Manuel de Ayala observed here when he sailed into the Bay in 1775. In 1850, a presi- dential order set aside the island for the US Army to build a citadel, but defense became less of a priority and, in 1909, it became a military prison. In 1933 the Federal Government decided to open a maximum security penitentiary here. Yet Alcatraz was not the Devil s Island that many think it was the conditions, such as one man per cell, were better than other jails. $Control Room From this bunkerrr hotel solar dos mascarenhas like facility, reinforced to withstand siege, the guards controlled the 24 hour electric security hotel solar dos mascarenhas system. hotel solar dos mascarenhas Next to the ControlRoom was the visiting area, where thick glass separated prisoners and visitors, and conver- sations were held over monitored telephones. %D Block Any prisoner who transgressed the strict rules and regulations would be sent to D Block (above), the 42 solitary confinement cells kept entirelywithout hotel solar dos mascarenhas light. ^Dining Room Meals were one of the few things prisoners had to look forward to, and they were generally well fed, to quell rebel- lion. Note the sample menu on display at the kitchen entrance. &Chapel On top of the guardhouse, a Mission style military chapel (above) was built during the 1920s. It was used as living quarters and a school, as well as a chapel. During the post 1930s prison phase, the building was used to house prison staff. *Broadway hotel solar dos mascarenhas The corridor that separates C and B blocks (left) was jokingly nick- named by prisoners after New York City s glittering thoroughfare, famous for its nightlife. The inter- section at the end was named Times Square. (Visitor Center The Visitor Center is located in the old barracks hotel solar dos mascarenhas building behind the ferry jetty (below). It houses a bookstore, exhibits, and a multi- media show providing a historical overview of Alcatraz, and an information counter. )Warden s House Until the house burned down in 1970, the warden s home looked out to freedom. Designed in Mission Revival style, the home had 17 large rooms, and sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco lights.

casa de vanzare bacau Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing a

Haas-Lilienthal House This Queen Anne-style mansion, built in 1886, is one of the few Victorian beauties in the city that accepts callers. It s a wonderful glimpse into the way of life among San Francisco s upper-middle classes from about 1890 to 1920. Outside, it features

This organization can provide every sort of information you might need about services for travelers with mobility problems, as well as for those with developmental disabilities. d 649 Mission St (415) 543-6222

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian casa de vanzare bacau hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, casa de vanzare bacau and aromatherapy. The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com

Caf Eritrea d Afrique An acclaimed restaurant serving Eritrean and Ethiopean cuisine in a relaxing and friendly atmosphere. They offer an all- you-can-eat veggie buffet on Wednesdays and Fridays. d 4096 Telegraph Ave, Oakland Hwy 880 (510) 547-4520 $

michael jordan last second shot The Kenwood Inn and Spa Nationally acclaimed as one of the Wine Country s most elegant and intimate

When you parallel park pointing up the hill, turn your wheels toward the center of the street; when pointing downhill, turn your wheels toward the sidewalk. That s the way to prevent runaway cars. If you are driving a manual shift rather than an automatic car, use your emergency brake when trying to start from a dead stop going up a steep hill your mastery of the clutch under these extreme conditions may not be up to the job. The speed limit everywhere is 25mph (40kmph) or less, and all passengers must wear seat belts.

The Kenwood Inn and Spa Nationally acclaimed michael jordan last second shot as one of the Wine Country s most elegant and intimate country inns, the Kenwood consists of 12 guest suites and a full service spa facility. The inn has the ambiance of an Italian michael jordan last second shot country villa in the heart of the Sonoma Valley, situated on a secluded hillside facing over 1,000 acres of vineyards. The spa offers a variety of massage michael jordan last second shot styles, including aromatherapy michael jordan last second shot and Ayurvedic. d 10400 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood (707) 833-1293 www. kenwoodinn.com

gregory montague If you re over 21 but look younger, carry an ID with you showing your age if you want to try out som

If you re over 21 but look younger, carry an ID with you showing your age if you want to try out some of the bars and clubs in town or want to drink alcohol in a restaurant or a shop. You must be over 18 to buy cigarettes.

CABLE CAR MUSEUM: 11b; CALIFORNIA ACADEMYY gregory montague OF SCIENCES: 22b; Dong Lin 22tl, 22tr, 23br, 23tr; CAMPTON PLACE HOTEL: 114tl; THE CLIFT HOTEL: Ian Schrager Hotels, gregory montague Nikolas Koerno: 114tr; CORBIS: 1, 4 5, 8cl, 9, 10b, 12 13, 14 15, 16tl, 16b, 17c, 17b, 27c, 34t, 36tl, 37tr, 37br, 39, 40tr, 52tl, 52tr, 54tl, 54tr, 54b, 55r, 74b, 76tr, 78tl, 78tr, 79t, 80 81, 86 7, 102 03, 118 19, 130 31; COST PLUS WORLD MARKET: 96tr.T TT

Streetsmart 1336 For discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city visit the website F di t d h t l t i th it i it th b it www.san-francisco-hotels.comwww san-francisco-hotels com www san francisco hotels com Budget Tips Left Discount museum tickets Right Discount ticket agency gregory montague Streetsmart gregory montague 1336 For discounted hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted gregory montague hotel rates in the city, visit the websiteFor discounted hotel rates in the city visit the website F di t d h t l t i th it i it th b it www.san-francisco-hotels.comwww san-francisco-hotels com www san francisco hotels com Budget Tips Left Discount museum tickets Right Discount ticket agency !Discount gregory montague Air Tickets

montague ullman Pure tourism, of course, but also one of the most enjoyable ways of getting around Downtown and Fish

126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, montague ullman 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: www.museumca.org, montague ullman p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts 126 Around Town The Bay Areaay Oakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California, 1000 Oak St, is open 10am 5pmOakland Museum of California 1000 Oak St is open 10am 5pm O kl d M f C lif i 1000 O k St i 10 5 Wed Sat, noon 5pm Sun. Website: montague ullman www.museumca.org, p gWed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Wed Sat noon 5pm Sun Website: www museumca org Left Octopus, California Ecosystems Center & Right Gold Rush Artifacts Oakland montague ullman Museum of CA Features

Pure tourism, of course, but also one of the most enjoyable ways of getting around Downtown and Fisherr rr man s Wharf. Pricey at $5 per ride, it becomes a bargain if you buy the CityPass ($54), which also gets you into many sights and is good for unlimited travel on the Muni transport system montague ullman for a week from the time of first use. The Muni Passport can be used on the entire montague ullman Muni system including cable cars.

Metreon Intended as a lively, high- tech, multilevel amusement arcade for adolescents, so far the only thing that seems to have clicked is the superb cinema complex. Here you can see the latest Hollywood blockbusters with full digital sound effects montague ullman amped up to the highest possible level. Otherwise, the Metreon s darkened rooms, designed for checking out the latest video games, are largely abandoned by the teens who were supposed to be flocking (see p29).

hotel montargil two-hour hike around 117 Lark Creek Inn 63, 129 Las Camelias 129 laundromats 136 Laurel Inn 142 left

Where the doormen wear Beefeater costumes and the cable cars glide by constantly. hotel montargil This splendid Art Deco land mark is just a block off Union Square. hotel montargil All in all, a very festive and colorful feel, both in the public and private rooms. d 450 Powell St Map P4 (415) 392-7755 www.sirfrancis drake.com Dis. access

two-hour hike around 117 Lark Creek Inn 63, 129 Las Camelias 129 laundromats hotel montargil 136 Laurel Inn 142 left luggage 133 Lefty O Doul s 67 Legion of Honor 40, 115 Leonardo hotel montargil da Vinci 45 LeWitt, Sol 26 Lexington Club 69 lighthouse, Alcatraz 14 Limerick, James 17 limousines 133 Lincoln Park 115, 117 The Lion Pub 68 Lit 112 Loma Prieta earthquake

Bailey Banks & Biddle The finest gems are set off by elegant designs created hotel montargil by this jeweler, in business since 1832. They also have Lladr figurines. d 3251 20th Ave, Stonestown Galleria (415) 759-5310

vile de vanzare domnesti Sausalito A former fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist haven, this small

of Paris building, constructed in the 1890s but torn down to build this modern structure. Part of the original remains, however, by way of the huge stained glass dome. Neiman s boast is that it can get anything you might want

Sts. Peter & Paul Church North Beach s landmark Italian Church was once dubbed the Marzipan Church vile de vanzare domnesti for the frothy vile de vanzare domnesti stucco decoration on its soaring pinnacles. Inside, there is a sculpted reproduction of Leonardo da Vinci s Last Supper (see p88).

Sausalito A former vile de vanzare domnesti fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist vile de vanzare domnesti haven, this small town offers spectacular views of the city from its Bridgeway Avenue promenade. Historically, it has been an artists vile de vanzare domnesti town, with an eccentric mix of residents (see p54). Bungalows cling to the hillsides and boats fill the picturesque marinas, many of them houseboats that locals live in year-round. Excellent restaurants, accommodations, and some unique shopping possibilities, too. d US 101

Joshua Abraham Norton Born in 1819, Norton made his fortune in San Francisco but lost it all in 1852. The event left him unhinged but harmless, and he declared himself Emperor of the United States and Protector of Mexico. He issued his own money, and was lovingly indulged by the city s populace until his death in 1880.

montague on gardens Bank of America This 52-story structure was the first skyscraper to be erec ted in the city, in 1972

Bank of America This 52-story montague on gardens structure was the first skyscraper to be erec ted in the city, in 1972. The color was a mistake the granite that faces it was supposed to be pink, not brown, but by the time delivery was made, it was too late. d 555 California St Map N5

At the southeastern corner of the park, kids will love the old carousel, a treehouse, montague on gardens and some great swings, slides, and other kid-driven rides. In the summer, there are often Punch and Judy shows to tickle and delight children of all ages (see pp20 23).

Club Six The terribly seedy southern Tenderloin/SoMa montague on gardens location can be a major drawback late at night, but once inside montague on gardens you can join the diverse crowd in dancing to some righteous DJs in the roomy downstairs area. The music tends toward house, trance, or what ever gets people moving. Or head upstairs montague on gardens to the high-ceilinged, comfortable lounge to relax and chat. d 60 6th St between montague on gardens Market & Mission Map Q3 (415) 863-1221

montague miller & company Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San F

San Francisco s Top 10op 55 Top 10 Sixties Figures !Janis Joplin This troubled singer from Texas became the queen of the San Francisco sound, until her death by heroin overdose. @Ken Kesey A powerful, revolutionary writer, his Magic Bus and Trips Festival set the tone for the entire Hippie Movement. #Jerry Garcia Patriarch of the San Francisco sound, his Grateful Dead band continued montague miller & company to tour until his death in 1995. $Mario Savio The UC Berkeley student launched the Free Speech Movement on the campus in the late 1960s. %Owsley Stanley The most famous source of pure LSD in the 1960s. montague miller & company ^Grace Slick The other queen of San Francisco montague miller & company s influential bands, in this case Jefferson Airplane. &Huey Newton Oakland s founder of the Black Panthers, a group committed to violent change if necessary. *Patty Hearst The newspaper heiress, kidnapped by the Symbionese Liberation Army in 1974, apparently converted and took part in an armed robbery. (Jim Jones The leader of a Fillmore District religious group who moved en masse to South America ended his days and those of some 900 followers in 1978, in a mass suicide by cyanide-laced Kool-Aid. )Charles Manson This commune leader and his followers murdered actress Sharon Tate in 1969. San Francisco s Top 10op 55 Top 10 Sixties Figures !Janis Joplin This troubled singer from Texas became the queen of the San Francisco sound, until her death by heroin overdose. @Ken Kesey A powerful, revolutionary montague miller & company writer, his Magic Bus and Trips Festival set the tone for the entire Hippie Movement. #Jerry Garcia Patriarch of the San Francisco sound, his Grateful Dead band continued to tour until his death in 1995. $Mario Savio The UC Berkeley student launched the Free Speech Movement on the campus in the late 1960s. %Owsley Stanley montague miller & company The most famous source of pure LSD in the 1960s. ^Grace Slick The other queen of San Francisco s influential bands, in this case Jefferson Airplane. &Huey Newton montague miller & company Oakland s founder of the Black Panthers, montague miller & company a group committed to violent change if necessary. *Patty Hearst The newspaper heiress, kidnapped by the Symbionese Liberation Army in 1974, apparently converted and took part in an armed robbery. (Jim Jones The leader of a Fillmore District religious group who moved en masse to South America ended his days and those of some 900 followers in 1978, in a mass suicide by cyanide-laced Kool-Aid. )Charles Manson This commune leader and his followers murdered actress Sharon Tate in 1969. ^Joan Baez Known in her youth as The Voice, girlfriend of Bob Dylan, and peacenik, the Palo Alto native later came out as a lesbian, montague miller & company continuing to work for peace and social justice. Recently, Baez created a cabaret character, the Contessa ZinZanni, in a show that has enjoyed good reviews in San Francisco.

Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere Island 127 Beringer Vineyards 33 Berkeley 123 Berkeley Hills 60 Betelnut 105 Biafra, Jello 54 Bia s Restaurant and

Senators Feinstein and Boxer California has always been several steps ahead of the rest of the country. In 1992 it became the first state to send two women Senators to the US Congress, Dianne Feinstein and Barbara Boxer.

Around montague miller & company Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier montague miller & company antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, montague miller & company and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring montague miller & company beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, montague miller & company DKNY, and more all at reduced montague miller & company prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, montague miller & company jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging montague miller & company your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

vacanze last second Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fash

The big guns are all well represented in this city that loves looking good. Most of them are clustered around vacanze last second Union Square. The more upscale the department store, the more it feels like the exclusive parlor vacanze last second of some deluxe hotel, where you are the pampered guest. vacanze last second A very comfortable way to shop

^Armistead Maupin Maupin s Tales of the City were serialized in the San Francisco Chronicle before being published in book form. They are lighthearted paeans to the idio syncrasies of gay San Francisco in the 1970s, before the specter of AIDS changed everything.

Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fashionable Union Street. The individually decorated rooms are all spacious, with original vacanze last second antiques and art, fine linens, and complimen tary chocolates, fresh flowers, and fruit.

78 San Francisco s Top 10op The Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayTh vacanze last second O i S i t d t diti t th l whale migration. Contact (415) 474-3385 for details.g ( )whale migration Contact (415) 474-3385 for details whale migration Contact vacanze last second (415) 474 3385 for details Day Trips from the City Left Coastal beach Right Monterey harbor Monterey This town is renowned for its world-class aquarium, the Monterey vacanze last second Jazz and Blues Festivals, and Cannery Row, made famous by author John Steinbeck, who described it as a collection of sardine canneries and whorehouses. Established by the Spanish inCalifornia 78 San Francisco s Top 10op The Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayThe Oceanic Society conducts expeditions to the annual grayTh vacanze last second O i S i t d t diti t th l whale migration. Contact (415) 474-3385 vacanze last second for details.g ( )whale vacanze last second migration Contact (415) 474-3385 for details vacanze last second whale migration vacanze last second Contact (415) 474 3385 for details Day Trips from the City Left Coastal beach Right Monterey harbor Monterey This town is renowned for its world-class aquarium, the Monterey Jazz and Blues Festivals, and Cannery Row, made famous by author John Steinbeck, who described it as a collection of sardine canneries and whorehouses. Established by the Spanish inCalifornia !

harvey montague Palace of Fine Arts This bit of Neo-Classical fluff was designed by Bernard Maybeck for the Pan-Paci

58 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Golden harvey montague Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium Children s Attractions 58 San Francisco s Top 10op Left Golden Gate Park playground Right Exploratorium Children s Attractions !

Palace of Fine Arts This bit of Neo-Classical fluff was designed by Bernard Maybeck for the Pan-Pacific Exposition of 1915. It is patterned on an 18thcentury engraving by Giovanni Piranesi entitled The Isle of the Dead (see p94).

meg montague Exchange offices are found at San Francisco International Airport (see p133), in some Downtown banks

The nine pairs of black-footed meg montague penguins located meg montague in Africa Hall are fed twice daily, and it s always a spectacle that the whole family enjoys. Penguins may waddle meg montague on land, but their grace is evident when you observe them dive and glide effortlessly through the water to catch their meal.

Exchange offices meg montague are found at San Francisco International Airport (see p133), in some Downtown banks, and at American Express and Thomas Cook agencies. However, fees and bad rates of exchange are the norm. It s better to avoid the problem altogether by using ATM machines.

Skateboarding Skateboard ramps are wherever you make them in this city along Market Street in the Financial District, in one of the dozens of parks, or on any plaza. meg montague Protection against meg montague the inevitable vagaries of flying around on wheels means you should gear up appropriately. d DLX: 1831 Market St; Map F4 FTC Skateboarding: 622 Shrader St; Map D4

Rooftop Children s Center and Carousel Located atop the west wing of the Moscone Center, this complex is all about children. The carousel dates from 1906. There s also an ice skating meg montague rink, a bowling center, a learning garden, and an amphitheater. d 750 Folsom St Map Q5

donald montague to-die-for views, and the palatial dwellings. The Spreckels Mansion, a limestone palace in the Beaux

Bailey donald montague Banks & Biddle 120 Baker Beach 76 Balmy Alley 47 Bambuddha Lounge donald montague 70, 90 Bank of America 46 banking 138 banknotes 138 The Bar on Castro 112 bargaining donald montague 140 Barkdoll, Lloyd 17 Barker, Arthur Doc 17 Barney, Matthew 27 bars 66 7

This sort of shopping donald montague can net you some real treasures and keep your bank account intact, too. One of the most central flea markets is in Bernal donald montague Heights. Thrift shops are all over town two of the best are located in the Mission, the Goodwill Store and the Salvation Army Thrift Store. Both offer everything from vintage clothing to miscellaneous junk.

to-die-for views, and the palatial dwellings. The Spreckels Mansion, a limestone palace in the Beaux-Arts tradition, donald montague on Washington and Octavia streets, is the brightest gem of the lot, now owned by novelist Danielle Steele (see p53). d Map E2

sticky wisdom book Eagle Tavern Bikers and leather boys still rule at this venerable SoMa dive. Come to revel in the be

996 Wharf Area Shops Left Ghirardelli sticky wisdom book chocolate bars Right Cost Plus World Market Around Town The North Shoreline 996 Wharf Area Shops Left Ghirardelli chocolate bars Right Cost Plus World Market Around Town The North Shoreline !

Eagle Tavern Bikers and leather boys still rule at this venerable SoMa dive. Come to revel in the beer- busting, testosterone-filled atmosphere. The back patio gets going on Sunday afternoons sticky wisdom book and Thursdays feature free perforr rr mances by local bands, usually grunge. d 398 12th St Map G4 (415) 626-0880

intabulare casa Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian hi

The author would like to thank the following people for their assistance: Patricia Perez-Arce and Ed, Sonal Bhatt, Bruce and Celeste Joki, Margaret Casey and Mark Trahan, Robert Vente, Angela intabulare casa Jackson, Sandy Barnes, Harriet and Rick Lehrbaum, Paul Brown, Phyllis Butler, intabulare casa Nini Dibble, Jolie Chain, Helen Craddick, Vivian Deuschl, Marr Goodrum, and Isabelle Lejano.

Sonoma Coast Villa This family-run, bed and breakfast hotel is nestled in the rolling Californian intabulare casa hills. The Mediterranean-style house is located in 60 acres of beautiful pasturelands near Bodega Bay. Accommodation consists of 16 luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, fireplaces, and private patios. This secluded retreat offers a variety of spa treatments, including massages, reflexology, and aromatherapy. The hotel can recommend more strenuous activities in the area. d 16702 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega (707) 876-9818 www.scvilla.com intabulare casa

Harry Denton intabulare casa s Starlight Room Something for the 40-plus set, or even 50-plus. Twenty-two stories above Union Square, couples can dance to cocktail jazz and the milder R&B hits, and relax in the easy sophistication of the place. It s 1930s-stylish, so consider it a chance to dress up in suits and party dresses, sip highballs, and enjoy the city s seductive lights. d Sir Francis Drake Hotel, 450 Powell St at Sutter Map P4 (415) 395-8595

fin de seman Ten 15 Folsom Perhaps the definitive SoMa club, with three levels of trance and techno spun by big-n

Ten 15 Folsom Perhaps the definitive fin de seman SoMa club, with three levels of trance and techno spun by big-name DJs, complete with million-dollar light shows (see p70). d 1015 Folsom St at 6th Map R4 (415) 431-1200

122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County fin de seman Headlands IN LOCAL PARLANCE, THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa Clara and San Jose and certainly Santa Cruz and Capitola do not touch the waters of the Bay, psychologically they still embody the same liberal, fin de seman open- minded ethos that so defines this area. This is probably because the dominant mentality of this swatch of Northern California is so definably different from those of Southern California and the Central Valley. In towns such as Berkeley, Mill Valley, and Stanford fin de seman the emphasis is on progressive thinking; smaller fin de seman enclaves such as Bolinas are determined to live life in harmony with the breathtaking nature all around them. Sather Tower, Berkeley campus Around Town The Bay Areaay 122 The Bay Area Left Mormon Temple, Oakland Right Point Bonita lighthouse, Marin County Headlands IN LOCAL PARLANCE, THE BAY AREA breaks down into The City, the East Bay, Marin, the Peninsula, and the South Bay. Although technically Santa Clara and San Jose and certainly Santa Cruz and Capitola do not touch the waters of the Bay, psychologically they still embody the same liberal, open- minded ethos that so defines this area. This is probably because the dominant mentality of this swatch of Northern California is so definably different from those of Southern California and the Central Valley. In towns such as Berkeley, Mill Valley, and Stanford the emphasis is on progressive thinking; smaller enclaves such as Bolinas are determined to live life in harmony with the breathtaking nature all around them. Sather Tower, Berkeley campus Around Town The Bay Areaay

vanzari vile San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all

! St. Patrick s Day Parade With its large Irish population, not to mention the 25 or so Irish pubs scattered around town, the St. Patrick s Day Parade and the revelry that follows deep into the night is one of the city s largest celebrations. The parade journeys from 5th and Market vanzari vile streets to the Embarcadero. d Sun before Mar 17

San Francisco vanzari vile s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema vanzari vile (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks vanzari vile of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street vanzari vile A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, vanzari vile and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro vanzari vile Street Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian vanzari vile homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost four blocks vanzari vile are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing boutiques, vanzari vile health food shops, and an old fashioned cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro vanzari vile Street Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). Crocker Galleria

CABLE CAR MUSEUM: 11b; CALIFORNIA ACADEMYY OF SCIENCES: 22b; Dong Lin 22tl, 22tr, 23br, 23tr; CAMPTON PLACE HOTEL: 114tl; THE CLIFT HOTEL: Ian Schrager vanzari vile Hotels, Nikolas Koerno: 114tr; CORBIS: 1, 4 5, 8cl, 9, 10b, 12 13, 14 15, 16tl, 16b, 17c, 17b, 27c, 34t, 36tl, 37tr, 37br, 39, 40tr, 52tl, 52tr, 54tl, 54tr, 54b, 55r, 74b, 76tr, 78tl, 78tr, 79t, 80 81, 86 7, 102 03, 118 19, 130 31; COST PLUS WORLD MARKET: 96tr.T TT

the last second Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere

Francisco 149 beers 67, 141 begging the last second 135 Bel Abri 147 Belli, Melvin 54 Bellini, Giovanni 24 Belvedere Island 127 Beringer Vineyards 33 Berkeley 123 Berkeley Hills 60 Betelnut 105 Biafra, Jello 54 Bia s Restaurant and

Where the doormen wear Beefeater costumes and the cable cars glide by constantly. the last second This splendid Art Deco land mark is just a block off Union Square. All in all, a very festive and colorful feel, both in the public and private rooms. d 450 Powell St Map P4 (415) 392-7755 www.sirfrancis the last second drake.com Dis. access

There are no real American style malls in San Francisco. The ones that come closest are the San Francisco Shopping Center (see p51) and the Crocker Galleria (see p50). Other centers are in historic structures such as Ghirardelli and The Cannery (see pp12 13), or have architectural originality, such as the Embarcadero Center (see p50) and the Japan Center (see p99). You will find unusual shops in most of them.

the commune great wall Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms ar

Polk Street Historically, the southern the commune great wall part of this street, known as Polk Gulch, was San Francisco s first openly gay district, the commune great wall before the rise of the Castro in the 1970s (see p107). Since then it has grown shabbier, although it still attracts plenty of younger gays to its clubs, bars, and shops. At the other end, just down from Russian Hill, Polk Street is one of the city s shopping and dining lures, with a host of fine choices to tempt the eyes and palates of a discerning clientele. d Map Q1

Plenty of websites, representing the principal tourist agencies, tell you how to tackle the pracy of websites, representing the principal tourist agencies, tell you how to tackle the practical aspects of organizing a visit to San Francisco. Or they will send you materials by standard mail (see box).

Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly refurbished according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter at Octavia

beijing nanshan ski resort Mecca This dolled-up industrial space attracts some of the Castro s prettiest men, including the occ

Mecca This dolled-up industrial space attracts some of the Castro s prettiest men, including the occasional drag queen, around the glowing circular bar, with red velvet and chiffon drapery. It s also a supper club featuring New American cuisine. d 2029 Market St Map F4 (415) 6217000 Dis. access

Fort Mason The rolling lawn above Fort Mason Center (see p94), known as the Great Meadow, is a relatively little used park, but it s great for taking a siesta, tossing a frisbee, beijing nanshan ski resort or just strolling through to take in the spectacular views from the cliffs. d Map F1

adriatic air San Francisco is a city where diversity is embraced wholeheartedly, and supporting it is public poli

San Francisco is a city where diversity is embraced wholeheartedly, and supporting it is public policy. San Franciscans generally applaud differences of ethnicity, race, age, belief, gender, sexual orientation, and ability. Anyone who mocks or denigrates anyone else for any of these reasons has not understood what makes this city tick.

139 Haight Street 51 Haight Street Fair 75 Half Moon Bay 77 Hall, William Hammond 21 Hallidie, Andrew 11 Hallowe en 75 Hamilton, Floyd 17 Hammett, Dashiell 52 Harbin Hot Springs 35 The Harcourt 149 Haring, Keith 25 Harry Denton s Starlight

San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, adriatic air restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market adriatic air Street A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing adriatic air store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro Street Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight Street This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). San Francisco s Top 10op 51 Top 10 Shopping Areas !Union Square Traditionally the focal point of all the best stores, includ- ing Tiffany & Co, Armani, Prada, Cartier, Yves St Laurent, Chanel, and more (see p84). @Union Street Converted Victorian homes house a charming assortment of boutiques, bookstores, antiques shops, restaurants, and a cinema (see p99). #Grant Avenue The southernmost four blocks are chic shopping off Union Square; then you enter eight blocks adriatic air of exotic China- town emporiums; finally, Upper Grant is all about North Beach hangouts. d Map N4 $Upper Fillmore Street A colorful choice adriatic air of caf s, restaurants, and boutiques, all geared to a high end Pacific Heights clientele. d Map E2 %Market Street adriatic air A good place to find cut rate electronics shops, adriatic air as well as outlet shops like Old Navy clothing store. d Map Q3 ^Hayes Valley These blocks adriatic air offer shop- ping with an avant garde feel (see p100). &Chestnut Street Clothing boutiques, health food shops, and an old fashioned cinema. d Map K1 *The Mission Plenty of superrr discount stores and funky home furnishing shops (see p108). (Castro Street Fine shops, gay bookstores and erotic boutiques (see p107). )Haight Street adriatic air This is still hippie central secondhand clothing and eso- teric emporiums (see p99). Crocker Galleria

San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing adriatic air spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areTh b t i i t f th I d d D fi k Crissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds.ssy adriatic air eg ap pe geCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect adriatic air large crowdsCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds

casa de vanzare sighisoara Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fash

Combining the elegance and gentility of an Edwardian home, just up from the Marina and right on fashionable Union Street. casa de vanzare sighisoara The individually decorated rooms are all spacious, with original antiques and art, fine linens, and complimen tary chocolates, fresh flowers, and fruit.

! Swimming The icy waters of the Bay are an option only if you re a polar bear or an indomitable casa de vanzare sighisoara surfer. Most visitors will want to head for a pool try the Embarcadero YMCA. d Embarcadero YMCA: 169 Steuart St; (415) 957-9622 Map H2 www.ymcasf.org

188 montague street San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewi

San Francisco s Top 10op The best viewing spots for the Independence 188 montague street Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areThe best viewing spots for the Independence Day fireworks areTh b t i i t f th I d d D fi k Crissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds.ssy eg ap pe geCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowdsCrissy Field or from Telegraph Hill but expect large crowds

This grand San Francisco institution 188 montague street still shines 188 montague street in its lovely public rooms, but it s become a tour- group mediocrity 188 montague street otherr rr wise. The tower rooms do have phenomenal views, however. d 335 Powell St Map P4 (415) 397-7000 www.westin. com Dis. access $$$

One of the best ways to get from and to the airport is to use the shuttle services, some of which are doorr rr to door. You can pick them up on the upper level at SFO. When making the return trip, however, you ll need to book the doorr rr to door type. Others leave regularly from major hotels 188 montague street and pick up spots. d SFO Airporter: 188 montague street (415) 5588500; www.supershuttle. com Bayporter Express:

Berkeley Its days as Berzerkly, when student protesters 188 montague street and tear-gas clouds filled the streets in the 1960s, are only a fading memory 188 montague street now, although Telegraph Avenue still keeps some of the counterr rr cultural traditions alive. A great university, Cal s faculty boasts some dozen Nobel Laureates, while beautiful parks, tree-lined streets, and unique shops typify this East Bay enclave. Berkeley continues 188 montague street to give more power to the people than any other US city, with a host of public 188 montague street services and aid to the disadvantaged that puts other communities to shame. d BART Berkeley

anthony montague Collectibles of Asia In a complete departure from the usual kitsch of Pier 39, this shop offers genu

Collectibles of Asia In a complete departure from the usual kitsch anthony montague of Pier 39, this shop offers genuine Chinese antiques at very affordable anthony montague prices. You can find carvings, masterful ceramics, and much more. d Pier 39, 2nd Floor, Building P, No. 214 Map J4

If you re hankering after a fancy meal in one of the more famous restaurants, you d do best to call in advance, sometimes up to two months ahead in the case of one or two of the top Bay Area draws. anthony montague For the middling places, making a reservation a day or two before should suffice, unless you choose a weekend anthony montague night.

Action central for all the major sights. Rooms hold up to five beds. All major public transportation is just outside. Nightly movies, e mail access, walking tours, an events board, and lots of tourist info are other pluses.

Most US post offices are open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 2pm on Saturdays. Stamps can be purchased here, from some hotels, and from vending machines. If you need to mail something other than postcards and letters, wait in line at the nearest post office. Otherwise, drop your stamped mail off at the hotel desk or in any street mailbox.

crossings at montague Pacific Heights A grander, more exclusive residential area is hard to imagine. Commanding as it does

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals Around Town Central Neighborhoods 105 Places to Eat Above Absinthe !Perry s A San Francisco institution, noted for its burgers and other all-American crossings at montague faves, including meatloaf, prime rib, and fried chicken. d 1944 Union St Map F2 (415) 922-9022 Dis. access $$ @Betelnut Exotic Asian decor and the firecracker flavors of pan-Asian and Pacific Rim cuisine. This place has been a hit from day one. d 2030 Union St Map L5 (415) 929-8855 Dis. access $$$$ Yoshida-Ya One of the old-standby Japanese choices. Although the sushi is remarkable, it s the yakitori (barbecue) that gives the place its ongoing reputation. d 2909 Webster St Map E2 (415) 346- 3431 Dis. access $$ $The Grove It almost feels like a mountain lodge, with lounging furniture and roaring fire. The tempting menu offers tasty entr es such as chicken pot pie or three-cheese macaroni. d 2016 Fillmore St Map E3 (415) 474-1419 Dis. access $$ %Miyako The Japantown Mall is designed to resemble a typical Japanese village. This restaurant offers all Japanese delights, including udon (noodles in broth). d Japantown, 1707 Buchanan Mall Map F3 (415) 567-6552 $$ ^Absinthe Like being air-lifted to a Paris bistro. Specials such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with prunes, Landais potatoes, and arugula. d 398 Hayes St Map F4 (415) 551- 1590 Closed Mon Dis. access $$$ &Fritz Belgian frites and cr pes and a patio where Europhiles can smoke. d 579 Hayes St Map F4 (415) 864-7654 Dis. access $ *Powell crossings at montague s Place Great soul food. The signature Bar-B-Q ribs are heavenly. d 1521 Eddy St Map F4 (415) 409- 1388 $ (Bia s Restaurant and Winebar crossings at montague The top choice for Mediterranean cuisine. d 1640 Haight St Map E4 (415) 861-8868 Dis. access $$ )People s Caf For a cappuccino and a snack any time of day or night, this is a great hangout. d 1419 Haight St 4 (415) 553-8842 Dis. access $ 106 Southern Neighborhoods Left Castro District bar Right View from Twin Peaks Around Town Southern Neighborhoods THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE CITY comprises some of the liveliest, most authentic parts of town the clubs of SoMa, the gay world of the Castro, and the Latino Mission District. There are also some up-and-coming neighborhoods such as Bernal Heights and Glen Park, as the more central areas have priced creative types out toward the southern borders. Laid-back Noe Valley was the first such choice for high-rent refugees, but it, too, has gone gentrified and pushed people farther south. Noe Valley church Around Town Southern Neighborhoods crossings at montague g 7107 !San Francisco Museum crossings at montague of Modern Art San Francisco s home for its Statue of St Joseph, Mission DoloresAround Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 7107 !San Francisco Museum of Modern Art San Francisco s home for its Statue of St Joseph, Mission Dolores extensive modern art collection is as impressive outside as it is adaptable and awe-inspiring inside. Don t miss the top floors, featuring the latest digital installations, if you want to know what the cutting edge art world is honing itself on these days

*Fillmore Auditorium One of the legendary homes of psychedelic rock during the 1960s. Along with the Avalon Ballroom and the Winterland (both now gone), this is where the San Francisco Sound found its first audience. d 1805 Geary Blvd Map E3

Pacific Heights A grander, crossings at montague more exclusive residential area is hard to imagine. Commanding as it does heights up to 300 ft (100 m) overlooking the magnificent Bay, everything about it proclaims power and wealth. The blocks between Alta Plaza and Lafayette Park are the very heart of the area, but the grandeur extends from Gough to Divisadero and beyond. On a sunny day, there s nothing more exhilarating than scaling its hills and taking in the perfectly manicured streets, the

Built in 1890, this old mansion has been lovingly crossings at montague refurbished crossings at montague according to Victorian taste. Rooms are all different and filled with antiques. Breakfast is complimentary, and your morning newspaper, too. The views are delightful. d 1590 Sutter at Octavia

montagu mansions ^Edinburgh Castle Pub A hugely happening place incorporating live indie music, a fish n chips delive

139 Haight Street 51 Haight Street Fair 75 Half Moon Bay 77 Hall, William Hammond montagu mansions 21 Hallidie, Andrew 11 Hallowe en 75 Hamilton, montagu mansions Floyd 17 Hammett, Dashiell 52 Harbin montagu mansions Hot Springs 35 The Harcourt 149 Haring, Keith 25 Harry Denton s Starlight

Disabled accessible toilets are provided in many places, including large hotels montagu mansions and restaurants, attractions, and municipal areas. montagu mansions Some are inside the buildings, but there are also a number on the street the green kiosks montagu mansions that you

^Edinburgh Castle Pub A hugely happening place incorporating live indie music, a fish n chips delivery montagu mansions service, as well as darts, pool, and general carousing in the Scottish manner. d 950 Geary St Map P2 (415) 885-4074

elephants can dance ( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district became

Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht harbor. Many of the suites elephants can dance feature whirlpool baths, kitchens, and wet bars, and all have period furnishings. d 3155 Scott St at Lombard Map E2

Sts. Peter & Paul Church North Beach s landmark Italian Church was once dubbed the Marzipan Church for the frothy elephants can dance stucco decoration on its soaring elephants can dance pinnacles. Inside, there is a sculpted reproduction of Leonardo da Vinci s Last Supper (see p88).

90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town, rich with arty nonchalance (see p64). d 605 Vallejo St Map M4 (415) 982-2605 Dis. access @Tosca Dating back to 1919, this North Beach bar is a favorite with celebrities. The jukebox plays opera arias. elephants can dance d 242 Columbus Ave Map M4 Closed L (415) 986-9651 Dis. access Caff Roma You re as likely to hear Italian here as you are English, not only from the staff but from the patrons. A friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy an espresso and eye passers-by. d 526 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 296-7662 Dis. access $O Reilly s The bar dates from 1825 and was imported from Ireland. Everything here evokes the Emerald Isle. d 622 Green St at Columbus Map L4 (415) 989-6222 Dis. access %Grand Caf A stylish place to see and be seen, as an addendum to the chic Hotel Monaco. d 501 Geary St at Taylor Map P3 (415) 292- 0101 Dis. access ^Quetzal A colorful, bustling place where you can get a brew from coffee to beer and check your e-mail. Breakfast and lunch fare. d 1234 Polk St at Bush Map N1 (415) 673-4181 Dis. access &Bambuddha Lounge This popular and trendy restaurant and nightclub is the place to visit for fabulous cocktails and hip beats. There is a heated patio (see p70). *Bubble elephants can dance Lounge A champagne bar with room after room of subdued lighting elephants can dance and cozy corners (see p66). d 714 Montgomery St Map M5 (415) 434-4204 Dis. access (Red Room All red and tiny, as the name implies, this joint lures devotees with its classic cocktails. d Next door to Commodore Hotel, 827 Sutter St between Jones and Leavenworth Map P2 (415) 346-7666 Dis. access )The Irish Bank Down a picturesque alley, this winning pub feels very Irish. Tip a Guinness before the 5pm yuppie rush to get the best taste of its friendly vibes. d 10 Mark Lane, off Bush St Map P4 (415) 788-7152 Around Town Downtown

( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district became populated by Southern African-Americans who came west for work. For a short time, it was famous for jazz and blues clubs, elephants can dance as embodied, until his death in 2001, by John Lee Hooker and his Boom Boom Room. Today, elephants can dance it is still largely African-American in character and rather rundown, although it does comprise architecturally odd St Mary s Cathedral (see p44) and photogenic Alamo Square (see p49). d Map E3

annette montague The Great Highway Broad and straight, this coast highway begins at Cliff House at the northern end a

The Great Highway Broad and straight, this coast highway begins at Cliff House at the northern end and eventually meets the famous Highway 1, which takes you, via dramatic cliffs, down to Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, Monte rey, Carmel, Big Sur and eventually, to Mexico. d Map A4

Ann Taylor Simplicity and comfortable fit are the keynotes of the women s clothing designed by Ann Taylor. Elegant suits, luxurious silk sweaters, linen casuals, or sporty khakis. d 3251 20th Ave, Stonestown Galleria (415) 564-0229

the mysterious montague Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise

Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, the mysterious montague DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian the mysterious montague bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping the mysterious montague in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without the mysterious montague a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful the mysterious montague 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including the mysterious montague Prada, Gucci, Armani, the mysterious montague Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec the mysterious montague tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated, all hotels the mysterious montague accept creditUnless otherwise stated all hotels accept creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, gcards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning $The Clift Equal parts wit, surrealism, and glamour. So say the proprietors of this latest Ian Schrager property, with interiors by Philippe the mysterious montague Starck. You ll laugh with delight at the visual the mysterious montague jokes, including a chaise very, very longue by none other than Dal. d 495 Geary St Map P3 (415) 775-4700 www. morganshotelgroup.com Dis. access $$$ %Triton the mysterious montague Perhaps the city s most original hotel, featuring avant-garde touches evening tarot card readings, feather boa rentals, and several suites designed by rock celebrities, including Jerry Garcia. It s all too cool for words; you might run into Cher or Courtney Love, both of whom have stayed here. d 342 Grant Ave Map P4 (415) 394-4 0500 www.hoteltriton. com Dis. access $$ ^Rex Steeped in California s literary and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts an intellec tual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity. d 562 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 433-4434 www.thehotelrex.com Dis. access $$$ Left Campton Place Right The Clift Boutique Hotels Streetsmart 1444 Note:Note:Note:Nt Unless otherwise the mysterious montague stated, all hotels accept creditUnless the mysterious montague otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditUnless otherwise stated all hotels accept the mysterious montague creditU l th i t t d ll h t l t dit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, gcards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioningcards and have en suite bathrooms and air conditioning $The Clift Equal parts wit, surrealism, the mysterious montague and glamour. So say the proprietors the mysterious montague of this latest Ian Schrager property, with interiors by Philippe Starck. You ll laugh with delight at the visual jokes, including a chaise very, very longue by none other than Dal. d 495 Geary St Map P3 (415) 775-4700 www. morganshotelgroup.com Dis. access $$$ %Triton Perhaps the city s most original hotel, featuring avant-garde touches evening tarot card readings, feather boa rentals, and several suites designed by rock celebrities, including Jerry Garcia. It s all too cool for words; you might run into Cher or Courtney Love, both of whom have stayed here. d 342 Grant Ave Map P4 (415) 394-4 0500 www.hoteltriton. com Dis. access $$ ^Rex Steeped in California s literary and artistic traditions, this great little hotel boasts an intellec tual air and decor that suggest 1920s salon society. Still, the mysterious montague the rooms have the very latest touches, such as voice mail, CD players, and writing desks for guests to pursue their own creativity. d 562 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 433-4434 www.thehotelrex.com Dis. access $$$ Left Campton Place Right The Clift Boutique Hotels !Campton Place