elephants can dance ( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district became

Edward II Apartment Suites are across the street from the Edward II Inn (see p146), near the yacht harbor. Many of the suites elephants can dance feature whirlpool baths, kitchens, and wet bars, and all have period furnishings. d 3155 Scott St at Lombard Map E2

Sts. Peter & Paul Church North Beach s landmark Italian Church was once dubbed the Marzipan Church for the frothy elephants can dance stucco decoration on its soaring elephants can dance pinnacles. Inside, there is a sculpted reproduction of Leonardo da Vinci s Last Supper (see p88).

90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town, rich with arty nonchalance (see p64). d 605 Vallejo St Map M4 (415) 982-2605 Dis. access @Tosca Dating back to 1919, this North Beach bar is a favorite with celebrities. The jukebox plays opera arias. elephants can dance d 242 Columbus Ave Map M4 Closed L (415) 986-9651 Dis. access Caff Roma You re as likely to hear Italian here as you are English, not only from the staff but from the patrons. A friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy an espresso and eye passers-by. d 526 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 296-7662 Dis. access $O Reilly s The bar dates from 1825 and was imported from Ireland. Everything here evokes the Emerald Isle. d 622 Green St at Columbus Map L4 (415) 989-6222 Dis. access %Grand Caf A stylish place to see and be seen, as an addendum to the chic Hotel Monaco. d 501 Geary St at Taylor Map P3 (415) 292- 0101 Dis. access ^Quetzal A colorful, bustling place where you can get a brew from coffee to beer and check your e-mail. Breakfast and lunch fare. d 1234 Polk St at Bush Map N1 (415) 673-4181 Dis. access &Bambuddha Lounge This popular and trendy restaurant and nightclub is the place to visit for fabulous cocktails and hip beats. There is a heated patio (see p70). *Bubble elephants can dance Lounge A champagne bar with room after room of subdued lighting elephants can dance and cozy corners (see p66). d 714 Montgomery St Map M5 (415) 434-4204 Dis. access (Red Room All red and tiny, as the name implies, this joint lures devotees with its classic cocktails. d Next door to Commodore Hotel, 827 Sutter St between Jones and Leavenworth Map P2 (415) 346-7666 Dis. access )The Irish Bank Down a picturesque alley, this winning pub feels very Irish. Tip a Guinness before the 5pm yuppie rush to get the best taste of its friendly vibes. d 10 Mark Lane, off Bush St Map P4 (415) 788-7152 Around Town Downtown

( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district became populated by Southern African-Americans who came west for work. For a short time, it was famous for jazz and blues clubs, elephants can dance as embodied, until his death in 2001, by John Lee Hooker and his Boom Boom Room. Today, elephants can dance it is still largely African-American in character and rather rundown, although it does comprise architecturally odd St Mary s Cathedral (see p44) and photogenic Alamo Square (see p49). d Map E3