the crossings at montague 90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town,

90 Caf s and Bars Left Grand Caf Right Tosca !Caff Trieste One of the most authentic caf s in town, rich with arty nonchalance (see p64). d 605 Vallejo St Map M4 (415) 982-2605 Dis. access @Tosca Dating back to 1919, this North Beach bar is a favorite with celebrities. The jukebox plays opera arias. d 242 Columbus Ave Map M4 Closed L (415) 986-9651 Dis. access Caff Roma You re as likely to hear Italian here as you are English, not only from the staff but from the patrons. A friendly atmosphere in which to enjoy an espresso and eye passers-by. d 526 Columbus Ave Map L4 (415) 296-7662 the crossings at montague Dis. access $O Reilly s The bar dates from 1825 and was imported from Ireland. Everything here evokes the Emerald Isle. d 622 Green St at Columbus Map L4 (415) 989-6222 Dis. access %Grand Caf A stylish place to see and be seen, as an addendum to the chic Hotel Monaco. d 501 Geary St at Taylor Map P3 (415) 292- 0101 Dis. access ^Quetzal A colorful, bustling place where you can get a brew from coffee to beer and check your e-mail. Breakfast and lunch fare. d 1234 Polk St at Bush Map N1 (415) 673-4181 Dis. access &Bambuddha Lounge This popular and trendy restaurant and nightclub is the place to visit for fabulous cocktails and hip beats. There is a heated patio (see p70). *Bubble Lounge A champagne bar with room after room of subdued lighting and cozy corners (see p66). d 714 Montgomery St Map M5 (415) 434-4204 Dis. access (Red Room All red and tiny, as the name implies, this joint lures devotees with its classic cocktails. d Next door to Commodore the crossings at montague Hotel, 827 Sutter St between Jones and Leavenworth Map P2 (415) 346-7666 Dis. access )The Irish Bank Down a picturesque alley, this winning the crossings at montague pub feels very Irish. Tip a Guinness before the 5pm yuppie rush to get the best taste of its friendly vibes. d 10 Mark Lane, off Bush St Map P4 (415) 788-7152 Around Town Downtown

The East Bay s major airport is only a bit farther away from the city, so it can be a handy alternative. One advantage is fewer crowds. Again, there is a choice of transport to get you back and forth. d Oakland International Airport:

quality children s programs, such as the many feeding times and the creepy-crawly insect denizens, make it one of the tops for budding zoologists. The whole landscaping of the place, from quirky castles to natural habitats, is also designed for maximum fun (see p116).

Botanica Yoruba The Santeria religion is the faith of many Latinos, and this shop caters to their ritualistic and spiritual needs. An array of potions and powders, candles and icons (see p45). d 998 Valencia St Map F5 (415) 826-4967