montague mews Polk Street Historically, the southern part of this street, known as Polk Gulch, was San Francisco s

Polk Street Historically, the southern part of this street, known as Polk Gulch, was San Francisco s first openly gay district, before the rise of the Castro in the 1970s (see p107). Since then it has grown shabbier, although it still attracts plenty of younger gays to its clubs, bars, and shops. At the other end, just down from Russian Hill, Polk Street is one of the city s shopping and dining montague mews lures, with a host of fine choices to tempt the eyes and palates of a discerning clientele. d Map Q1

Oakland montague mews Gertrude Stein s famous dictum montague mews about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

Haas-Lilienthal House This Queen Anne-style mansion, built in 1886, is one of the few Victorian beauties in the city that accepts callers. It s a wonderful montague mews glimpse into the way of life among San Francisco s upper-middle classes from about 1890 to 1920. Outside, it features